Darts can be tricky and can look pointy if not done properly, and nobody wants pointy boobs. Here’s a tutorial on how to sew the perfect, smooth dart that will make whatever you’re sewing a perfect fit.
Click “Read More” below for the how to
Place a pin about 3/8″ BEFORE the end of your dart, this is here as a little reminder. Remember to mark the end of your dart with chalk, this is where the absolute last stitch should be.
When you get to the pin, stop sewing. Adjust your stitch size to 1. These teeny tiny stitches are going to help make a very fine point to the dart.
Sew all the way to the edge and off the edge, do not cut your thread. Lift your presser foot and move it back up the dart about 1/2″. Make sure you’re not pulling your threads too tight, but don’t leave a big loop. Almost done…
Place the presser foot back down 1/2″ up the dart and stitch a few stitches and then release your presser foot and clip your threads.
By doing this you’ve created less bulk at the tip of the dart, which will make it much smoother when you press it out. Finishing the thread ends in the body of the dart prevents you from having to back stitch at the end of the dart, again preventing more bulk. Also, the tiny stitches at the end allow you to grab every last bit of fabric until the end of the dart which means your dart won’t end mid-stitch.
Use a pressing ham if you can to lightly press the end of the dart, don’t stretch it. Pressing it over a rounded curve helps shape the dart. Press on the wrong side first, always folding towards the centre of the garment. Press with light steam on the right side.
And there you have it. I learned this little trick in fashion design school and I’ve seen it used quite a bit in textile factories, especially with light weight and sheer fabrics.
Questions? Please feel free to ask!